Moving Meals

And an invitation

I’m in the process of moving out of my house of thirty years, which involves, among other things, battling with packing tape that always wants to corkscrew (what is it about packing tape??), numbering boxes quickly before I forget what is inside, and any number of other details that are too boring to detail.  You have all been there at one time, and you know the feeling and the reality which, if I may say, is compounded by the inimitable French culture and it’s persistent complication.  Enough said there. 

In any case, cooking isn’t on my mind, until I’m consumed with a ravenous hunger.  At that point, I want something delicious and I want it as soon as possible.  Thus, simplicity reigns.

Another universal truth is that simplicity requires preparation.  So, one needs to have certain things on hand to whip up a simple, fast meal.  For me, that means instant polenta (one of the few allowable hacks, in my mind), nuts of every type, preferably seasoned and roasted by me, dukkah the best and most nutritious seasoning element I can think of, basics like mustard, olive oil, garlic, shallots. All of this must be complemented by fresh things, or life just doesn’t make any sense at all.

Yet another ingredient is company, but not the kind that needs fine linens and silverware.  No, the type that just wants to be there for the fun, preferably after having helped out with the tape.

One of my favorites in what I’m now referring to as “moving meals,” was the squash I roasted with the peel on and the seeds and skein still inside.  I did it that way out of sheer exhaustion, and it was stunningly delicious.  Any squash will do.  I did it with potimarron, also called kuri squash, whose skin is edible. Give it a quick scrub all over, cut it in chunks, put it in a dish with unpeeled garlic cloves, liberally douse it all with olive oil, salt, and pepper, and roast it at 450F;225C for 30 to 45 minutes.  I say 450 because when you put the pan in the oven temperature is likely to fall by about 25 degrees, an almost universal occurrence.    The presentation is appetizingly earthy and maybe the seeds do add some flavor, I’m not sure about that. But they’re so easy to scoop out at that point, a real time saver.

Another easy favorite is roast chicken carcass.  I got the idea for this wierdly amazing dish in the Dordogne centuries ago, when I spent lots of time there cooking on my friend Danie’s farm.  On butchering day, we’d gather goose carcasses, season and roast them over the coals until they were golden and crispy-juicy.  At that point they become an official dish called “demoiselles,” and they are stunningly delicious and messy to eat.  Everyone gets one or two and proceeds to pick their way through dinner, which of course includes salad and cheese afterwards.  It’s incredibly satisfying, because there is scrumptious meat on a carcass and if you are like me and love to nibble, it’s a perfect dish, requiring only a grill or hot oven (450F, the magic number), and a fair number of napkins, preferably at this moment, made of paper so you can throw them away instead of washing and ironing them. 

I have other quick dishes up my sleeve. Polenta is a favorite, though not the kind I learned to make in Italy.  I heat up water or milk with a bay leaf then carefully strew in instant polenta and stir it until thick, which takes roughly five minutes.  Then, I add a lot of grated Parmigiano, remove it all from the oven and voila!  Dinner, with a big salad to round it out. 

Eggs are, of course, the ideal fast food. A friend of mine came for the weekend with porcini he’d hunted and preserved, so these went into an omelet, what I always call a “five-minute supper”.  If that sounds like too much trouble, sizzle up some lardons (pieces of bacon), fry up an egg for each guest, then put these atop a robust green salad. 

As for appetizers - because no meal in France no matter the situation, is a meal if there isn’t an appetizer or two, bring out the nuts, or the dukkah with sliced vegetables and a bowl of olive oil.  Or you can pretend you are French and succumb to potato chips. 

The thing is, moving is a trying process that requires physical, psychological, and emotional energy, leaving little for anything else.  But one must still eat and eat well.  So it pays to be prepared. Here is my “moving” pantry:

·      Instant polenta (allowable hack)

·      Toasted nuts

·      Dukkah,

·      Fresh vegetables that keep like carrots, beets, kohlrabi, radishes if in season, garlic, shallots

·      Lettuce

·      Basics like mustard, oil, vinegar

·      Cheese

·      Candles

These are all staples at any time, but particularly when putting your life into boxes.  The candles? Well, atmosphere and romance are always important, no matter what else is going on!

INVITATION

Looking into the future, when this moment is behind me, I want to invite you to join in on a Provence Culinaria hosted by Oldways Cultural Food Traditions  April 23-30, 2025.  I have been invited to be the culinary expert on this marvelous trip, which Oldways describes this way:

Provence is a region rich in gastronomy, history, and art, it’s no wonder why greats like Chef Julia Child, Author Peter Mayle, and artists like Van Gogh and Cézanne made homes here. Known as the garden of France, it’s a must visit destination for food lovers. We will spend our week discovering the cuisine and culture of this quintessential Mediterranean region. Our home for the week is Aix-en-Provence, acclaimed for its markets. You’ll be delighted by the charm of this town, its abundance of fresh food, and fashionable character. Beyond Aix, we will venture to savor Côtes du Rhône wine in its terroir, learn how the famous soap of Marseille is made, taste delicious Provencal olive oil, sip rosè along the beautiful coastline, and so much more. We’ve designed our week to celebrate the spirited yet simple cuisine of Provence — seasonal vegetables, fresh fish, raw milk cheeses, and of course olive oil, garlic, and herbs. Timeless. Vibrant. Idyllic. Provence is the France you’ve always dreamed of. You won’t want to miss this trip! Plus, the people in the group are an added benefit – new friends, new people to learn from, and to just enjoy!

Registered Dietitians may be eligible to earn continuing education credits pending review and approval from CDR.

This trip will provide an insider’s look at the culture and gastronomy of Provence with visits to producers, events, and meals that highlight all that is the seasonal best of the region.  To sign up and for more information, go here