A Cooking Class in Paris
And How it Unfolds
I often get requests to describe my cooking classes. I’ve made an attempt here.
As 2026 unfolds with the speed of light and plenty of instability, food markets in Paris remain stalwart friends. They are more sparse this month as some producers take January to “mend their nets,” get things in order, take a rest.
Not all local producers have disappeared, and those who brave the uncertainties of winter offer incomparably sweet, crisp and satisfying produce. Current favorites are Brussels sprouts, potimarron, all the root vegetables, and apples and pears which I fall in love with every year. Finding them fresh from the soil is like discovering an old love, with all the intensity of the first time. And this happens over and over throughout the year with all manner of fruits, vegetables, even meats, poultry, seafood, and cheeses, which is why every ingredient we use in class is of the moment, the best it can possibly be.
As the producers get back full-time I get back to teaching, as dependent on them and the seasons as I am on sunlight and air. I’m already getting inspiration for menus though, as I stalk the market three times a week. It’s a great source for more than ingredients; I’m amazed at the pearls I pick up from vendors and customer. Both can be a wealth of ideas and recipes. All the planning in the world can change on a dime, however, if the weather doesn’t cooperate. And this year is weirder than most. Violent windstorms, icy (and beautiful) snow, heavy curtains of rain, weeks as dry as a bone. I don’t know how farmers do it, bless their souls and soil-darkened hands.
Once my menu is decided, the ingredients purchased, the recipes printed out, the real prep begins. It is called mise-en-place, a chef’s secret weapon, and it involves measuring out every ingredient, to the 1/4 teaspoon. Once that is done, cooking is a breeze. Of course it’s not entirely that simple, but almost. In any case, I justify all my beautiful bowls, pitchers, and other accoutrements thanks to mise-en-place. You don’t just want to slap a Tupperware of flour on the table, oh no. An early 19th century Gien bowl is so much nicer…!
Mise-en-place done, the table is set, recipes are printed, aprons and tea towels are at the ready so that when everyone is assembled, we begin immediately. I offer a tasting or two, then dishes are either chosen or assigned, sometimes more than one person on the same dish. And we begin. Those preparing a dish owning it from A to Z, though I’m right there to adjust a hand on a knife, give a tip on how to get there faster or easier, lend a hand, tell a story that makes the dish even more special. There is much conversation and laughter, so many delicious aromas and kitchen alchemy, then Voila! We are hungry and the meal is ready.
We sit, and as each course is presented those who prepared it explain what they’ve done so that all benefit. When it comes to the wines and cheeses I’m in charge, and present the best hand-crafted, small production, exquisite examples available. And when it is all over and we’ve had our fill, everyone goes back to where they are staying, cancels their restaurant reservation for that night (!), and prepares for the following day.
Classes begin at 10:30 except on market day when we meet at 9:30 or 10, and usually end around 3:30. That hour is a little flexible because by then the conversation is such that no one wants to go.
Cooking together, learning and tasting new things, is an intimate way to get to know a place, a deep dive into its culture and personality. While I know France and its food inside and out, I am constantly learning too. And what gives me the most pleasure, aside from meeting wonderful cooks and tasting dishes they prepare, is sharing what I know.
Here is a sample menu
COOKING WITH SUSAN HERRMANN LOOMIS
Techniques: roasting, purée, poaching, finishing with egg yolk, braising, meringue
Amandes, Façon Espagnole
Spanish Almonds
Fleurs d’Oeufs au Potimarron
Egg Flowers on Kuri Squash
Marmite Dieppoise
Norman Fish Soup
Salade á la Vinaigrette de Noisette
Salad with Hazelnut Vinaigrette
Fromages Variés
A Selection of Cheeses
Tarte au Citron Meringuée
Lemon Meringue Tart
My husband and I had the pleasure of taking one of Susan's cooking classes this summer and we can attest to what a fabulous and memorable experience it was! After reading Susan's work for years, and cooking from Plat du Jour, one of her recent cookbooks, in a virtual cookbook club (through Kitchen Arts & Letters in NYC), it was a dream come true to meet and learn from her. Susan went above and beyond sourcing ingredients setting everything up with such care and precision, just as she describes (there was a rain storm that morning, so we skipped the farmer's market and went straight to her studio). We learned so much from her -- from cooking techniques (peeling almonds, making tart dough, slicing herbs) to many fun and interesting tidbits about French culture and entertaining. The time passed incredibly quickly -- we literally stayed all day and could not have enjoyed ourselves more. Susan is a total gem -- super skilled, witty, warm, and generous. Reading her post brought back wonderful memories of our day!
The descripion of mise-en-place as a chef's secret weapon is spot-on. What gets overlooked is how this discipline transforms the chaos of cooking into something almost meditative. I've tried running project planning sessions this way and it changes everythign - having all the pieces ready lets people focus on the actual work instead of scrambling. Love that the class ends around 3:30 because nobody wants to leave.